Amaryllis 101

When purchasing the flowering plants, inspect the bulb carefully. Healthy bulbs are firm and dry and should feel heavy in your hand

With December right around the corner, it’s time to start a few amaryllis bulbs in time for the holidays. There are so many options available, including bare bulbs, bulb kits, pre-started potted bulbs and cut flower amaryllis for arrangements.

Selecting bulbs

When purchasing amaryllis, inspect the bulb carefully — healthy bulbs are firm and dry and should feel heavy in your hand. Avoid bulbs that are soft or have any visible signs of rot. The green tip of flower spathe may be showing above the neck of the bulb. This is a sign that bulb has already broken its dormancy and should be potted up quickly.

Amaryllis bulbs are worth growing over a longer season, not just for the holidays. Availability may be limited after the holidays, so I would suggest you purchase extra bulbs now if you would like to extend the blooming season. To have a continuous show of colour, stagger the bulb planting. Store extra bulbs in a cool, dry, frost-free spot such as a closet or basement. Bring the bulbs out of storage one or two at a time, planting them from November through to February.

Planting

Potting amaryllis is simple: I stick to basic clay pots with a saucers and use good quality potting soil. My reference suggests mixing the potting medium, 2/3 potting medium plus 1/3 coarse sand, to help improve drainage. Amaryllis will not thrive in soggy soil.

Amaryllis like to be pot bound; choose a pot that is about 2.5 centimetres larger all around than your bulb. I keep a supply of 15-centimetre-wide clay pots on hand for my annual crop of amaryllis — the clay pots help to stabilize the plants. To ready the pots for planting, immerse them in a bucket of water until they stop hissing (about five to 10 minutes). Dry clay pots are porous and can wick the water from the soil.

Cover the bottom of the pot with shards of terra cotta or a piece of plastic screen to prevent the potting medium from clogging the hole.

Examine the bulb and cut away any shrivelled roots. Set the bulb on a shallow glass filled with tepid water — just enough water to cover the roots — do not let the bulb touch the water. Soak the roots for at least an hour, or several hours, if possible. This step helps to revive the fleshy, dormant roots and makes them more pliable for planting.

Mound the potting soil in the prepared pot and carefully arrange the roots over the mound. Add more soil, firming it gently covering the lower 2/3 of the bulb with soil — the neck and shoulders of the bulb should be sitting above the soil line. If desired, top dress the soil with a decorative layer of pebbles or sphagnum moss. If you are plant more than one variety, tuck the plant’s label under the clay saucer for quick reference.

Water the pot thoroughly after planting. Place the pot in a bright room, 18 C at night to 23 C during the daytime. Amaryllis love a sunny window while they are producing flowers, but once the flowers open, move them to a cooler spot out of full sun. This will help prolong the blooming.

Amaryllis do not like to be overwatered. They do not need a lot of water until they start to actively grow. Keep the soil moist, but not wet, watering every three to five days or even weekly should be sufficient. Test the moisture by sticking your finger down into the soil, if it feels moist, do not add more water.

Amaryllis varieties that produce tall stems and large flowers will benefit from a little extra support. Bamboo stakes (or even sturdy garden twigs) tied with raffia look more natural than any sort of metal supports.

I have adopted a simpler solution. My current “Bolero” amaryllis has produced three flower spathes that will bloom in quick succession. Rather than string up the plant to support the large flowers, I cut the first flowering stem and set it in a sturdy vase. I may do the same with the second stem. Did you know that amaryllis make long-lasting cut flowers? I have left the stem long for now, but shorter stems work better in an arrangements.

More ways to enjoy amaryllis

If you don’t want to go to the bother of potting up amaryllis bulbs, you can buy them potted and already sporting two or even three flower spathes from local floral outlets. These plants come with a colourful plastic collar that helps to protect the buds until you get them home, remove the collar, give the plant a drink if it is dry, and pop it into a decorative container. The bulbs have been given a head start in local greenhouses and usually flower within about 10 days of bringing them into a sunny room.

As mentioned earlier, amaryllis make beautiful, long-lasting cut flowers. Grown locally by Prins Grow Inc. in Jordan Station, cut amaryllis are shipped across North America. Prins Grow is not open to the public, but the flowers are available from local florists. Pair amaryllis flowers with seasonal greens, such as pine, cedar or boxwood in arrangements for the holiday table.

I’ve pre-soaked the clay pots, brought in a fresh bag of growing medium and have my next batch of amaryllis bulbs ready to plant — I’m planning for a colourful season of amaryllis blooms to enjoy over the holidays and beyond.